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So, although Paris has great food, you can't always find great organic food. Rose Bakery fits the bill. The french/english couple are originally from London and they have imported an Anglophone-type deli to Paris. There you find tarts, quiches, carrot cake, fruit crumbles and cinnamon rolls to name a few. They also have for take-away grilled veggies, salads and little pizzas. Their restaurant serves brunch on the weekends and lunch during the week. I had their hamburger which was organic, mixed with wonderful herbs and flanked with grilled pumpkin and sweet potatoes. My friend had a quiche which was divine. They sell organic teas, cookies and other yummy things for you to bring home. Everyone there speaks english. This is a cozy place to hang when you just want something organic and familiar.
This bakery is also in the 3rd/11th hood I was talking about in the Chloe outlet post. And, Rose's brother is married to Rei Kawabuko thus, making this place super cool.
rue debellyme 75003
they have a second bakery at rue des martyrs 75009
This was clearly the last sale of 'press sale' season. The city is littered with 'stocks' or outlets, it just takes time to figure out which ones are worth visiting. These pseudo exclusive sales are a good way to get new clients. Anyhow, there was a password and then you could get it.
Everyone loves Chloe. Ever since Phoebe Philo re-invented the label a few years ago, every wannabe 'bobo' fashionista yearns for Chloe. Unfortunately, the price points are usually really high. So, alas, I went to the outlet to see what deals were to be had!!!
The area is one of those 'transitonal' neighborhoods of Paris. It is near Republic which also flanks Belleville which is known to be a bit seedy and not so glamourous. This is also a neighborhood that is becoming hipper as we speak. The 3rd and the 11th arrondissement are the ultimate urban village. Cool boutiques such as Vanessa Bruno, Antik Batik, Shine and APC occupy real estate here. Things still feel Parisien without feeling too gentrified. So, it seemed appropriate that the Chloe outlet was on the outskirts of this 'hood.
Upon entering, you see loads of bags. They were between 500-800 euros with 20% off. I saw some Paddingtons, Bay bags, but no Paraty bags. The clothes were a big mix. They had loads of sweaters, pants and dresses. The price point varied from 100 - over 500 euros for fur coats. Everything had an additional 20% that day. So, for Chloe, the prices were ok, but compared to the other press sales I had been too, it wasn't the best deal. Next door were the shoes. I saw ballerina flats for 112 euros ( super cute!!) heels for 200 and some boots. It was there that made the trip all worth it. I found some cute purple suede flats that were so soft that I couldn't leave without them. Chloe outlet 5-7 rue J P Timbaud 75011, closest metro is Oberkampf.
So the sales continued. I headed to the Place Vosges in the Marais for the 'Les Petites' sale. It was a miserable day and the line was formed under the arcades. Place Vosges is where you can find Victor Hugo's home, which is a museum, and loads of little cafes and galleries. It is gorgeous. So luckily we were protected from the rain, since the line was equally as long as the one for Maje and it was moving really slow.
Normally at these sales, they do not allow you to try on the clothes. Initially I found it slightly irritating, but after this sale, I kind of agree with that policy. I saw girls piling up clothes in a corner and just taking off their clothes to try on dresses, pants etc. The security detail, which is always present, must have been having a hey-day watching all the women in different stages of undress. I saw an old woman, clearly in her 70's shuffling about with a dress on and her pants at her ankles. It freaked me out!!! The air was thick with dust from the clothes being thrown around, the chaos of the girls vying for a spot to try their potential clothes and the bitchiness of girls hoping to find something before you do. Les Petites' price points aren't the highest and their quality is passable. They are extremely trendy, thus making them very popular. You could tell the difference between this clientele versus the other sales I have been to. Dresses were 50 euros, sweaters 50 euros and coats 70 euros. I left fairly quickly. I was not inspired to really look for anything. The desperation, and the image of the old lady, traumatized me for the day!
The next day, I awoken with the feeling of hope. I was off to the Vanessa Bruno sale in the Bastille. I love her clothes and her quality is amazing. I arrived fairly early and the line was just a few minutes wait. The women in the line were also very well dressed , in that Vanessa Bruno way, and super nice. I have a card to this store, but apparently there are different levels depending on how much you spend. So, technically I could not go to the sale until after noon, but I was assured by the girl standing next to me and I could piggy back on her invite. How nice is that?
The place was organized by color and size. It was so structured, just like her clothes. Also, you were able to try on the clothes, but only where you found them. Thus, no one could hide away with two bags of clothes to try on. The atmosphere was full of anticipation, but since the clothes were a much higher quality and price, it remained a bit more civilized. There were her famous tote bags with sequins starting at 50 euros, shoes for 120 euros and clothes starting at 60 euros. They also had her Athe line which is fun and bit lower priced. I wanted to buy so many pieces, but I made do with a sweater and a cute dress. The desire for my new YSL bag is keeping me in check.
I have fallen upon the strange phenomenon that are the press sales in Paris. I am sure there are several levels, and clearly I am still a debutante, but they are so enticing. In Paris, they are legally 'allowed' two big sales per year. The government decides when and we all wait with bated breath for that day. But, I am guessing that a way to get around the law is to have these 'invitation only' sales. In any case, I hit as many as I could find last week.
The first sale I hit was Tara Jarmon in the Marais. Same location as the Maje sale last week and same security detail. I noticed that this security detail are the same guys they use for the fashion shows. They all wear the same coat and the same earpiece. The scan the store to make sure no one is stealing or trying on the goods. It is a very strange presence. Anyhow, let's talk about the goods!!
Tara Jarmon is a strange designer. I guess if you like embellished girly clothes, she is the one for you. Loads of coats with claudine collars, cute buttons etc. Not really my style, but I did find a nice cardigan for my mother-in-law with pearl buttons. Yes, that type of cute! Normally the prices in the store start at 100 euros and up and the prices were about 60-70% off retail. There were loads of girls there lining up and buying loads of coats and dresses. I felt like a lightweight only getting one thing, but I knew I had many more sales ahead of me!
The next stop was at Adele Sand in the Bastille. It is one of those stores that regularly has 'stock' and if you are a member, you can get in early. So, in the name of research, I joined and I got my little card so I could check it out without a line. The Sandro sale there started early in the morning, so I figured it would be good to see the goods before the madness.
I normally like Sandro, but the sale was fairly mediocre. The style is a bit more hippie-ish and a bit less edgy than maje or zadig. I saw loads of things from last year which was a bit disappointing. The prices were not as interesting as the other sales. Sweaters ran about 70 euros for wool and acrylic mixes. I was surprised. I had been seeing cashmere for 50 euros everywhere else. The coats were still over 100 euros. Nonetheless, Sandro has a very good following and the girls were stuffing their transparent bags full of goods. I bought nothing. The security detail gave me a hard time for taking a picture of the outside of the store. I think they are trying to give the feeling of exclusivity, yet, it was just a bunch of girls trying to get a good deal. I was a bit put off needless to say!!
The next sale I hit was the brand 'et vous'. I had never bought their stuff, but had checked them out regularly in the stores. They are known for having great sweaters and well made clothes. The store was on 15-17 rue Turbigo just near the Pompidou center. The sale was great. Cashmere sweater dresses for 60 euros or if you bought two, 100 euros. Other thinner sweaters for 40 euros. Great coats and really cute tops. There was no security detail and you could try the stuff on. Overall, a much happier experience. I ended up getting two nice cashmere items. I would definitely recommend visiting that store if you are in the neighborhood.
I have two more sales this next week and then I have to SAVE for the big sales in Jan. Let's hope I don't get tempted too much!!!
So, I get a weekly email from 'my little paris' which is the equivalent of 'daily candy'. Last week they said they had invitations to the Maje press sale. You initially feel kind of special, but then you realize that you are not the only one getting this email, but are hoping people do not have the time to go.
Maje is a very hip label which is very bobo parisien. Bobo stands for bohemian bourgeois and the style is quite specific. Slightly hippie, but with elements that are clearly expensive and well thought out. I do like the line and I have a few pieces. The price points start at 50 euros for a hat etc. up to 300 euros for a coat. As a result of the affordability, it is quite popular with the working fashionista in Paris.
So, I went to the sale and I could not believe what I saw. I showed up in the Marais and there was a line of at least 200 girls. There were security guards at the front gate with ear mics. and they were all dressed in black. The location was a loft that I assume is rented out for many such sales. The line started on one side of the sidewalk and then switched to the other side due to a government building. We could not block the entrance. This was a Wednesday, a working day and girls were lined up!!! After a long wait, I finally got in.
It was chaos inside. We were not allowed to try anything on. The selection was from this season, so it was pretty interesting. There were tables of sweaters and sales girls behind the table taking people's orders. The tables were being pushed by the shoppers and every now and then the sales girls would push the tables back violently to regain some space. I also assumed it was a way to release some stress! There were racks and racks of dresses, coats and pants. If you were caught trying anything on, the security detail would throw you out. I saw this happen! The price points were great. Sweaters normally 135 euros on sale for 50 euros. Anyhow, I bought some presents and finally got out of there. I am seeing more and more of these sales going on, I think the economic crisis is affecting even retailers here, so they are getting a head start on getting rid of stock. By having an 'invitation only' sale, I believe they get around the french laws for sales. Normally, the sales happen twice a year and the government decides when. Nonetheless, judging by the line, I guess the crisis hasn't affected a certain sector of shoppers; the parisien fashionista.
Check out maje.fr for the styles or monshowroom.com.
So in Paris, there are alot of people who work for the LVMH group. Luckily, one of my husband's friend happens to work there. He knows nothing about fashion, but when I hinted that I would LOVE to go to a staff sale, he quickly invited me to the Marc Jacobs sale. I was over the moon!!
I arrived at the sale site early and I was able to chat to one of the sales woman taking a cigarette break. She said the line was long that morning and that people were in a total panic trying to get the best items before the person next to them. This sale was only for the folks who worked at LVMH, so it wasn't even open to the public and it was madness!
I watched with envy as women walked by with bags full of MJ shoes, bags and clothing. I spotted a very styled out Asian fashionista lugging a bag and she had on the required fur hat of the season. I asked myself if these people took the day off or they just took a very long lunch to shop??!
Anyhow, I got in and the atmosphere was thick with anticipation and stress. I found Marc by MJ bags for 100 euros. A very long table full of bags and all of them were the same price. I watched women carrying on one arm six bags and talking furiously on the phone to their girlfriends clearly filling orders or just describing what was available. On another table, I found Stam bags for 350 euros, but they were not moving much. The bag is several seasons old and it is far too heavy to carry around. Nonethless, most of the MJ line bags were 200 euros and up. I found racks and racks of clothes. I got a MJ red shiny raincoat for 100 euros, a frilly blouse for 40 euros and a wool skirt for 45 euros. The prices were really interesting but there was so much stuff, that you felt overwhelmed.
I wish I could have stayed longer, but my sponsor was eager to leave. I just hope I get invited to more sales, or maybe I should just get a part-time job at LVMH???
There is a certain style in Paris that caters to women from their 20's to early 40's. The stores that covet to this clientale are boutiques like Maje, Sandro, Les Petites, Vanessa Bruno, Isabel Marrant etc. The price points are usually between 50 euros for an accessory to 300 euros for a fabulous dress. They are several steps above Zara, but much cheaper than YSL, Gucci, Prada etc. So, you can imagine, the look they advocate is fairly popular. This is what really influences the style in Paris. Of course, this clientale starts mixing up pieces with higher end accessories, so you get a very chic street style. At the moment, what you find at these boutiques are lots of leggings, low boots, tunics, long sweaters and rabbit fur vests. You see this everywhere at the moment. So you can imagine how excited I was to find a 'stock' or outlet of Les Petites in Paris. It just recently opened and the prices are fabulous. Cashmere sweater tunics for 60 euros, trench coats for under 100 euros, lots and lots of dresses, all under 100 euros. The stock is changing constantly so it is a great stop if you are around the Pompidou center/Marais. It is located on 2 rue du caire in the 2nd.
So littered around Paris are outlets or 'stock' as the french call them. They are often a bit hidden and never have big signs on their storefront. I had heard of the Alaia boutique from a girlfriend bragging about her beautiful new shoes. Alas, I decided to check it out myself.
I ventured on Rue Verrerie to find this infamous outlet. This street is in the heart of the Marais, close to the metro 'hotel de ville' and to the most comfortable Starbucks in the city. So I knew the area well since I spend alot of time around this neighborhood. I walked up and down the street and I could not find it. I finally went past an archway and I spotted a plaque/intercom with ALAIA engraved on it. That was all. I walked through the arch to a courtyard and saw a door. All the windows were frosted. I entered and there I found a small room with loads of clothes and even more shoes.
I was not familiar with Alaia's wares, but I can vouch that if you wear his shoes and clothes, you could moonlight as a dominatrix. Everything fits tight to the body and the shoes make you look hotter than hot. I tried on a pair of boots made of leather so smooth it felt like butter. It laced in the front with a square toe and a heel that demands attention. The original price was 1000euros and it was on sale for half of that. Thus, most of the items started at 800 with 50% off. You feel like you are part of a cult when you are there or that you belong in a George Michael video from the 90's. Definitely worth the visit. 18 rue verrerie, 4eme.
So today I ventured to what one can consider the Vatican of the left bank - Le Bon Marche! It is a beautiful department store which is well organized, civilized and very exclusive. It differs greatly from its right bank counterparts, Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, since it isn't loud, chaotic or messy. Rarely to you find clumps of Japanese tourists blocking your way, nor huge packs of crazy old french ladies fighting to get in front of you. The store carries the latest designers and the sales people are relatively nice for french employees.
The most amazing department is the cosmetics. They have an entire room dedicated to hair care, an entire room dedicated to organic/natural products and the best part is that you can touch, smell and fondle the products without some salesperson harassing you!! There is no loud trendy music, so you don't feel like you are in Sephora. The primary color of the store is white so you never feel agoraphobic.
My girlfriend and I made our way to the Lanvin department hoping to try on the famous ballerina flats. The salesperson was super nice and we tried on several pairs. They really are the best ones on the market. They have a built in heel which is covered by the leather. The nubuck version was so comfortable, you felt you could already walk the streets without fear of a blister. They run about 375euros a pair, but during the sale, they usually go half price. I have already made a mental note.
I was just having a snack with my girlfriend Mollie today at Cafe Flore, and who do I spot sitting right in front of us....David Lynch!!! Random sighting. He was there for awhile and we could hear his mid-western twang.
So today I ventured to the other stores listed in the IHT article. By chance, I was near St. Germain, so I headed over to Le Depot-Vente de Buci located on 4 rue de Bourbon Le Chateau. There are two stores. One store has mid-range items and the other stores carries more luxury good. The second store is where I focused my critical energy.
First of all, it seems all the women who work at these places are pretty unfriendly and can be downright rude. So be prepared when you go into these stores. On that note, let's see what I found!
They had a pretty good collection of YSL, Chanel and some LV. I found some YSL suits for around 280 euros. I found a YSL raincoat for 180 euros, but it looked pretty old. I also found a LV type of raincoat, short, clearly a model during the Murakami rainbow color years, for 400 euros. It is the type of store that if you have patience, you may be able to find a gem, but the majority of the stuff wasn't really of the season and some of it felt almost vintage-y. The shocker was a Hermes Kelly bag, size 30 I believe in a hard calf leather without the shoulder strap or dust bag for 3000 euros. It was in passable shape, but I have found on the internet similar bags with all the accessories for about the same price.
The stores is close to many tourist trappings and shopping. So, if you are having a drink at Cafe Flore or Les Deux Magots, swing by and maybe you'll find something that moves you.
After that stop, I headed to the other side of the 7th, past Les Invalids to check out Amelie par Luxury located at 17 rue Amelie. This store is not easy to get to and transportation to that area is challenging. So, I decided to go by foot and by the time I got there, I was pretty tired.
The store was a great surprise. The saleswoman was really nice. The first one I have encountered at these stores. Her items were well organized, clean and of the season. This meaning, she had everything for fall and winter out. Her shoes were off the ground and put on a very clean shelf where you could pick and choose without bending down. There was a good bit of Chanel around. I found a gorgeous Chanel mid-length raincoat for 800 euros, a Marni wool long coat for 350 euros and another Marni coat for 650 euros. The prices are comparable with WK Accessories, but it is a friendlier environment. She had nice purses as well, but the selection paled in comparison to WK. Also, they have a website which is based in Switzerland and they have loads of stuff.
This store is worth the visit if you are in the area.
I have to admit, I love the Palais Royal. Not only is it connected to my favorite author's old apartment (Colette) but it is a tiny little piece of paradise in the middle of Paris. It has amazing stores in the arcade, a beautiful garden and always interesting art installations. They have a new one called 'Guardianes' by Xavier Mascaro. In the middle of children playing in the sand and the fountain, you now find a series of seated iron guards protecting a skeleton of a boat. They are placed in a line with the first guards at either end facing away from the boat and the others facing toward the boat. It is amazing. Additionally, the Palais Royal has added a little something new to their normal pylon installation. They have surrounded it with a wall and you can only look into the pylons via a colored window. The windows are at all heights so kids can enjoy it as well. For a garden attached to the Comedie Francaise, it definitely embraces modern art and makes it accessible to everyone.
So two of my favorite shopaholics both sent me an article on depot-vente(i.e. consignment stores) spots in Paris on the same day!! I figured I could not disrespect them, so I decided to take it upon myself to explore the conspicuous consumption possibilities. I took the metro to Tuileries and ventured out.
Once one is out of the metro stop, you are basically in fashion central. Not the typical Champs-Elysees type, but the very fashionable area dominated by Colette. The store is right up the street from the metro. So, I walked up the rue Marche St Honore and began looking for WK Accessories.
It was literally spitting distance from Colette. There were some remnants of fashion week milling about since in the Tuileries Gardens, there was an industry market called Atmospheres which had tents all over and had exhibits from up and coming designers. Anyhow, back to the store... So, in the window they had two Hermes bags, Louboutin shoes, Givenchy bag, YSL coat, and loads of other luxury good items. You walk in and there is a round rack of purses ranging from Fendi to Louis Vuitton. I spotted a brand new YSL patent leather muse bag, large size, for 600 euros. The woman said they had loads of brand new bags. I also noted loads of Marni dresses, starting at 400 euros, good amount of Chloe, much of it with tags still on and a good amount of Chanel. I found a gorgeous Roberto Cavalli sweater, brand new, for 500 euros. There was alot of clothing with the tags still on.
There was a good amount of shoes as well, though I didn't really explore them carefully. Most of them looked worn and I am not a fan of worn shoes.
I watched a woman come in with a rolling LV bag and two big LV vernis bags with stuff to sell. She was laquered in designer-wear and you could tell she cleared her wardrobe every season. I got the impression this store got the cream of the crop on the right bank.
I explored another store that was mentioned in the IHT article called La Marelle located in the Galerie Vivienne. There was no comparison. Though the Galerie is beautiful and worth a visit, the store has very mid-range items. You found some Isabel Marant, Max Mara and Comptoir des Cotonniers. I felt that these type of brands you could buy for new on sale rather than go to a consignment stores. The beauty of a consignment stores is to find amazing pieces that; 1) you have never seen or were able to get on the waitlist, 2) they just cost way too much to buy new and in season.
So, if you really want to check out a 'worth the detour' store and you are ready to drop some euros, check out WK Accessories at 5 rue marche st honore. I will definitely be hitting it again judging by all the women coming in with bags of things to unload!!
I decided to make my way to Colette today to check out the new decor. It had been closed for most of the summer in order to remodel the famous digs. They had opened a temporary store in NYC this summer during the close. Anyhow, little did I know that everyone else had the same idea.
The place was packed. They had a wall of custom-made sneakers and a walled off row of t-shirts and hoodies. I felt like I was in Brooklyn on acid. The music was blaring and hipsters were everywhere. They still have the great book department and gadget displays. Unfortunately, they moved all the beauty products upstairs.
Upstairs you are still overwhelmed by mannequins with gorgeous shoes and gothic/hipster outfits. It is amazing. I saw lots of Valentino and Lanvin shoes. Black and fur was everywhere. There was still a great deal of YSL bags, but all in colors of grey or black. It is always hard to ask to try things on there, because you feel like you are in a living gallery.
The beauty products were tucked in a cooridor in between going to the art expo on the little loft. One felt like if you moved too quickly, you would ruin their displays. I saw a salesperson using a ruler to make sure all the lipsticks were in the right place.
I fell in love with a Marie-Helene de Taillac little bracelet. They were delicate and in the nice indian gold she is famous for....maybe I'll get it the next time I do a tour there.
Colette was definitely the rest stop between shows for the fashion crowd. Loads of Goyard bags, black clothing and attitude was abundant today.
After I left the chaos of the show, I decided I could use some retail therapy. I heard about this sale via mylittleparis.com. It is basically the french version of Daily Candy. Anyhow, it was on the other side of Paris in the 16th which is notorious for being extremely bourgeois and generally kind of boring. Alas, I took the metro and got off at La Muette. The store is called Espace NGR and is located on rue de boulainvilliers. It is not super easy to find, but once you are in, it is so worth it.
You have to check your coat and any other little bags you have with you. They give you a clear plastic bag and you are off! The sale this week was Prada, D&G, Marni, Marc Jacobs, Sergio Rossi accessories and shoes. It was a war zone. Boxes everywhere, clothes off hangers and stressed women all around. The choices were amazing. I nearly died for a Prada Mohair coat which made me look like cousin IT, but it was so warm and cozy. Everything was at least 60% off. Since I am presently on a shopping ban, I resisted. It nearly killed me. I tried on a pair of Sergio Rossi bootie heels which made my legs look so sexy, but the sales woman said the gap between my heel and the shoe was far too large. Leave it to french women to tell you the truth. Luckily, they don't work on commission. I left feeling totally dissatisfied but the sales occur every week. Next week is Vanessa Bruno and American Vintage. I can assure you I'll be ready.
You can check out their website at www.espace-ngr.fr.
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