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It is 'le quatorze Juilliet', Bastille day and I decided in honor of the French, I would head down to the mecca of shopping that is the Galleries Lafayette and Printemps. Of course they were open today and since it is also the sale season, the area was pretty packed. I expected the normal tourists and folks from the suburbs to be around, but I was pleasantly surprised by the windows at Galleries Lafayette.
It is called Paris Creation, and museums each have a vitrine to express themselves. So while we are in the throes of consumerism, we get glimpses of modern art in action. This twisted Batman and Mickey Mouse comes from Maison Rouge and is the project of Fabien Verschaere. It is an extension of "Vraoum! Tresors de la Bande dessinee et art contemporain" which is on display at the museum. There was a vitrine from Palais de Tokyo, Pompidou Centre, Museum of Decorative Arts, and a few others.I truly love Paris for its ability to integrate art into our everyday lives. It is inspiring.
So it was another Fashion Week. I kind of forgot about it since we have been all consumed with the press sales, real sales and then the onslaught of tourists. It wasn't until I noticed, while taking the metro one day, that there seemed to be a higher population of very tall skinny girls, with lots of make-up on, looking lost. They all seem very quiet and a bit disoriented. I noticed this model on the metro one day and noted that her leggings were BAGGY on her. I also spoke to a friend of mine in fashion, and apparently the girls are getting skinnier and skinner and that they eat tissue when they are hungry. They certainly like them young, from an eastern European country and very skinny.
On a happier note, the press sales were good this time around. I chose to only go to the Vanessa Bruno sale and the Antik Batik one. The same chaos ensued where the women are undressing in the middle of the room trying loads of clothes one, while hiding from the security guard. There is definitely a method to the madness and one needs to wear legging and a tank top so one can try on things easily without having to show some skin. I also hit some of the private sales at the boutiques. Since the economic crisis started, more luxury good stores have started 'vente prive' in the store long before the sales begin. This year I fell upon such sale at Bottega Veneta and got a great bag for half-off. Of course they do not really advertise and they reluctantly tell you the price ( it is Paris after all..), but deals were in abundance this year. Even YSL had a special 'prototype' sale at their Faubourg St. Honore store which featured colors of models that never made it into production but were being sold for under 500 euros. I saw a great bow bag in navy blue, a small version of the Besace in a soft baby blue and weird Downtown colors. I witnessed women walking out with five or more bags that morning. By ten o'clock, the stock was virtually finished. Even in these tough times, you can't keep the fashionistas away from their accessories.
Paris is full of salon de thes. There is La Duree, Mariage Freres and a variety of other fancy cafes that serve tea. So the other day my husband and I were walking around the St. Germain area and we ran into this beautiful little pocket of Japanese culture.
The space is very luminous, stylish and cozy. It is a traditional Japanese tea room where they serve you different types of tea and a small little cake or rice cracker that compliments your choice. The water is kept hot in a kettle in front of you and each type of tea is served with a teapot and tea cup meant for that specific tea. They also serve matcha and froth it right in front of you which was really entertaining since I have failed miserably in frothing it myself.
It feels very civilized and they give you small bamboo forks to eat your cake delicately and everything is very organized in front of you. They also sell very high quality teas, teapots, and other accessories for the tea connisseur in all of us.
Jugetsudo, 95, rue de Seine, 5e
jugetsudo.fr
APC is always in the mags and I always think, I really need to have some pieces. The style is decidedly french preppy with a touch of garage sale glam. Some of the clothes remind me of something Chloe S. would probably wear or something you would find at a very cool vintage store. Alas, the clothes are well-made, great materials and seem really simple. It is a strange thing to find in Paris. But....I never seem to buy anything at the stores??? I find a piece I like and I always think, "I feel so unglamourous" !! The clothes are super utilitarian and nice, but the prices are hardly for the average socialist. The price points range from a blouse for over 100 euros and dresses for 300 and up. So when I found the stock, I was really excited.
The entire store is half off the price on the clothes. This made it super interesting. I grew up in suburbia in the States and when I see something like the GAP, my first thought is always, "it will go on sale soon" and it always does. It may just be a block in my thinking (or maybe because I am chinese?!) but I have a hard time paying alot of money for a pair of khakis.
Anyhow, the stock is great. Amazing selection, very hip boutique and the sales person was super nice. Plus is it close to Sacre Coeur which is beautiful and it is in the 18e which makes it a pretty funky experience.
APC surplus, 20 rue Andre del Sartre 18e
Just had to show you the funky bird I spotted at 'merci'. This is why I love Paris and the shopping here. You really never know what you will see!!
The magical florist part of the new concept store 'merci' that welcomes you on the street.
The housewares section of this multi-tiered palace of creativity.
This plentiful little car welcomes you in the courtyard as you enter the store. It symbolizes what you may find inside, a bit of everything!
The clothing sections varies from specialized items from Marni, Stella McCartney, and YSL for the store, to Vanessa Bruno, Isabel Marant, Acne jeans and vintage finds. The light makes shopping a pure joy.
A certain percentage of the profits goes to a charity. There are linens, housewares, furniture and a used book cafe in one fabulous space. I have always loved the idea of concept stores, I just never have really fell in love with one. This store has two cafes, a used book store, clothes, gadgets, an Annick Goutal refill station for your favorite Parisien scent and amazing light. Price points range from 2 euros for a used book to 1000euros for a Haute Couture dress. I bought linen pillow cases for 29 euros and a fab straw hat for 35 euros. The owners of this wonderful concept store started Bonpoint, sold it and apparently got bored and created this space. ( I heard this from a good friend of theirs who happens to be a friend of mine!) Please visit it at 111 boulevard beaumarchais in the 3eme.
So, every sale season, Hermes has a special sale that is held in the Palais de Congres. Thus, their stores never have the sale items and the immaculate organization there never gets disrupted. I have been to this sale twice. As we all know, Hermes makes practically the mos expensive 'IT' bag ever...the Birkin. The Kelly and the Birken are the Holy Grails of purses. But to obtain one, there is usually a long wait list (meaning years!) and it will cost you a very pretty penny. Each bag is handmade by one person and one bag normally takes several days to finish. They are amazing. So, one can imagine that this type of attention to detail translates to their other items. We can never forget the 'carre'- their beautiful scarves which are so artistic and colorful, we could collect them forever. As you can imagine, I have started my own collection!
The price points are very high, even on sale. Beach towels will set you back 200 euros, carres were 145 euros ( 100 euros cheaper than in the stores!) and the clothing starts at around 500 euros. Hermes is definitely the BCBG brand (french word for preppy or our version of WASP) so you can imagine what the crowd was like!
The Palais de Congres is basically a big convention center. You wait in line for at least an hour with women laquered with furs and jewels. This was easily the most aggressive crowd I have encountered in all the sales I attended this past season. Once inside, you are required to show if you have anything from Hermes, check your coat and are given a clear bag. I first hit the scarf table and women were pushing each other, grabbing scarves and hogging the mirrors. It was intense. They of course did not have any of the classic bags for sale, only the boring ones that they make for the people who want Hermes, regardless if they are totally unattractive. The sale was also littered with Japonista fashionistas, so those bags definitely sold! There was even a duty-free counter at this sale.
I bought a scarf, but the atmosphere was so thick with passive and sometimes very aggressive energy that I would recommend going when you are really ready to fight a bit.
Sorry I have been MIA. The holidays came and went and then I had to prepare for the winter sales. It is a strange and tense time of year. The anticipation is thick and everyone feels they have been waiting for months to get what they didn't get for xmas. Women create strategies from what to wear to the sales ( easy to try stuff on) to what area to shop in while maximizing the good brands. My husband doesn't really understand the need and desire to acquire more goods during the sale. He thinks my version of economics is seriously flawed. I don't understand why he doesn't see that 50% off Lanvin shoes is really saving money!!! He thinks I am alone in this mindset, but I have assured him that he is in the minority. Just look around Printemps or rue faubourg st honore and he will see people who share my philosophy.
So, earlier this week, I ventured out into the shopping tundra to see what was my destiny.....
First stop was Printemps. Luckily it was a weekday and the second day of the sales. There were no big queues in front of Prada, Gucci or Dior. Normally you see loads of Japanese fashionistas drooling in line ready to buy as many bags as possible. Granted, it was fairly early in the day, so I may have been ahead of the crowds. The store was lively and they had an announcer saying what brands were on which floor and what percent was being reduced. Most of the store was 50% off. The entire Vanessa Bruno collection was 50% off. I touched, lingered, and almost tried something on, but I chose to keep trucking. The thing with the sales is that as time passes, they often mark things down more. So if it isn't a 'to die for' item, them it pays to wait a few weeks to see how low it will go. I stopped on the 2nd floor which is the Luxe floor. I breezed in Dior, Celine, Gucci, Prada and finally really took a look at YSL. As some of my friends know, I have a big thing for bags. We all have our achilles heel and mine happens to be YSL bags in general. They had loads of bags at half off!! But as luck would have it, my Easy bag in black/grey was of course not on sale. Prices were good if one was looking for this seasons colors or patent leather bags. One could get a 1000 euros bag for 500. See, good economics! The glass is half full.
Today I headed to the luxury street of rue Faubourg St Honore. The minute you walk on the street, you feel transported to another planet. Chanel on one side, Prada on the other. Fashioistas walking around with multiple shopping bags from the labels we all covet. I had bought Lanvin flats at the boutique and they give you a fabulous shopping bag. I noticed a very slick asian fashionista eyeing my bag with jealousy and curiosity. That is the accessory during the sales; the shopping bag from these glorious boutiques. Everyone checks out each other. I love Paris....
There were lines outside these boutiques. From the glorious Eric Bompard cashmire store to the slick Moncler store. Also on rue Faubourg St Honore, we see the lights at the Hermes store. Their sale is at the end of the month at the Palais de Congres. You know I'll be there.
This was clearly the last sale of 'press sale' season. The city is littered with 'stocks' or outlets, it just takes time to figure out which ones are worth visiting. These pseudo exclusive sales are a good way to get new clients. Anyhow, there was a password and then you could get it.
Everyone loves Chloe. Ever since Phoebe Philo re-invented the label a few years ago, every wannabe 'bobo' fashionista yearns for Chloe. Unfortunately, the price points are usually really high. So, alas, I went to the outlet to see what deals were to be had!!!
The area is one of those 'transitonal' neighborhoods of Paris. It is near Republic which also flanks Belleville which is known to be a bit seedy and not so glamourous. This is also a neighborhood that is becoming hipper as we speak. The 3rd and the 11th arrondissement are the ultimate urban village. Cool boutiques such as Vanessa Bruno, Antik Batik, Shine and APC occupy real estate here. Things still feel Parisien without feeling too gentrified. So, it seemed appropriate that the Chloe outlet was on the outskirts of this 'hood.
Upon entering, you see loads of bags. They were between 500-800 euros with 20% off. I saw some Paddingtons, Bay bags, but no Paraty bags. The clothes were a big mix. They had loads of sweaters, pants and dresses. The price point varied from 100 - over 500 euros for fur coats. Everything had an additional 20% that day. So, for Chloe, the prices were ok, but compared to the other press sales I had been too, it wasn't the best deal. Next door were the shoes. I saw ballerina flats for 112 euros ( super cute!!) heels for 200 and some boots. It was there that made the trip all worth it. I found some cute purple suede flats that were so soft that I couldn't leave without them. Chloe outlet 5-7 rue J P Timbaud 75011, closest metro is Oberkampf.
So the sales continued. I headed to the Place Vosges in the Marais for the 'Les Petites' sale. It was a miserable day and the line was formed under the arcades. Place Vosges is where you can find Victor Hugo's home, which is a museum, and loads of little cafes and galleries. It is gorgeous. So luckily we were protected from the rain, since the line was equally as long as the one for Maje and it was moving really slow.
Normally at these sales, they do not allow you to try on the clothes. Initially I found it slightly irritating, but after this sale, I kind of agree with that policy. I saw girls piling up clothes in a corner and just taking off their clothes to try on dresses, pants etc. The security detail, which is always present, must have been having a hey-day watching all the women in different stages of undress. I saw an old woman, clearly in her 70's shuffling about with a dress on and her pants at her ankles. It freaked me out!!! The air was thick with dust from the clothes being thrown around, the chaos of the girls vying for a spot to try their potential clothes and the bitchiness of girls hoping to find something before you do. Les Petites' price points aren't the highest and their quality is passable. They are extremely trendy, thus making them very popular. You could tell the difference between this clientele versus the other sales I have been to. Dresses were 50 euros, sweaters 50 euros and coats 70 euros. I left fairly quickly. I was not inspired to really look for anything. The desperation, and the image of the old lady, traumatized me for the day!
The next day, I awoken with the feeling of hope. I was off to the Vanessa Bruno sale in the Bastille. I love her clothes and her quality is amazing. I arrived fairly early and the line was just a few minutes wait. The women in the line were also very well dressed , in that Vanessa Bruno way, and super nice. I have a card to this store, but apparently there are different levels depending on how much you spend. So, technically I could not go to the sale until after noon, but I was assured by the girl standing next to me and I could piggy back on her invite. How nice is that?
The place was organized by color and size. It was so structured, just like her clothes. Also, you were able to try on the clothes, but only where you found them. Thus, no one could hide away with two bags of clothes to try on. The atmosphere was full of anticipation, but since the clothes were a much higher quality and price, it remained a bit more civilized. There were her famous tote bags with sequins starting at 50 euros, shoes for 120 euros and clothes starting at 60 euros. They also had her Athe line which is fun and bit lower priced. I wanted to buy so many pieces, but I made do with a sweater and a cute dress. The desire for my new YSL bag is keeping me in check.
I have fallen upon the strange phenomenon that are the press sales in Paris. I am sure there are several levels, and clearly I am still a debutante, but they are so enticing. In Paris, they are legally 'allowed' two big sales per year. The government decides when and we all wait with bated breath for that day. But, I am guessing that a way to get around the law is to have these 'invitation only' sales. In any case, I hit as many as I could find last week.
The first sale I hit was Tara Jarmon in the Marais. Same location as the Maje sale last week and same security detail. I noticed that this security detail are the same guys they use for the fashion shows. They all wear the same coat and the same earpiece. The scan the store to make sure no one is stealing or trying on the goods. It is a very strange presence. Anyhow, let's talk about the goods!!
Tara Jarmon is a strange designer. I guess if you like embellished girly clothes, she is the one for you. Loads of coats with claudine collars, cute buttons etc. Not really my style, but I did find a nice cardigan for my mother-in-law with pearl buttons. Yes, that type of cute! Normally the prices in the store start at 100 euros and up and the prices were about 60-70% off retail. There were loads of girls there lining up and buying loads of coats and dresses. I felt like a lightweight only getting one thing, but I knew I had many more sales ahead of me!
The next stop was at Adele Sand in the Bastille. It is one of those stores that regularly has 'stock' and if you are a member, you can get in early. So, in the name of research, I joined and I got my little card so I could check it out without a line. The Sandro sale there started early in the morning, so I figured it would be good to see the goods before the madness.
I normally like Sandro, but the sale was fairly mediocre. The style is a bit more hippie-ish and a bit less edgy than maje or zadig. I saw loads of things from last year which was a bit disappointing. The prices were not as interesting as the other sales. Sweaters ran about 70 euros for wool and acrylic mixes. I was surprised. I had been seeing cashmere for 50 euros everywhere else. The coats were still over 100 euros. Nonetheless, Sandro has a very good following and the girls were stuffing their transparent bags full of goods. I bought nothing. The security detail gave me a hard time for taking a picture of the outside of the store. I think they are trying to give the feeling of exclusivity, yet, it was just a bunch of girls trying to get a good deal. I was a bit put off needless to say!!
The next sale I hit was the brand 'et vous'. I had never bought their stuff, but had checked them out regularly in the stores. They are known for having great sweaters and well made clothes. The store was on 15-17 rue Turbigo just near the Pompidou center. The sale was great. Cashmere sweater dresses for 60 euros or if you bought two, 100 euros. Other thinner sweaters for 40 euros. Great coats and really cute tops. There was no security detail and you could try the stuff on. Overall, a much happier experience. I ended up getting two nice cashmere items. I would definitely recommend visiting that store if you are in the neighborhood.
I have two more sales this next week and then I have to SAVE for the big sales in Jan. Let's hope I don't get tempted too much!!!
So, I get a weekly email from 'my little paris' which is the equivalent of 'daily candy'. Last week they said they had invitations to the Maje press sale. You initially feel kind of special, but then you realize that you are not the only one getting this email, but are hoping people do not have the time to go.
Maje is a very hip label which is very bobo parisien. Bobo stands for bohemian bourgeois and the style is quite specific. Slightly hippie, but with elements that are clearly expensive and well thought out. I do like the line and I have a few pieces. The price points start at 50 euros for a hat etc. up to 300 euros for a coat. As a result of the affordability, it is quite popular with the working fashionista in Paris.
So, I went to the sale and I could not believe what I saw. I showed up in the Marais and there was a line of at least 200 girls. There were security guards at the front gate with ear mics. and they were all dressed in black. The location was a loft that I assume is rented out for many such sales. The line started on one side of the sidewalk and then switched to the other side due to a government building. We could not block the entrance. This was a Wednesday, a working day and girls were lined up!!! After a long wait, I finally got in.
It was chaos inside. We were not allowed to try anything on. The selection was from this season, so it was pretty interesting. There were tables of sweaters and sales girls behind the table taking people's orders. The tables were being pushed by the shoppers and every now and then the sales girls would push the tables back violently to regain some space. I also assumed it was a way to release some stress! There were racks and racks of dresses, coats and pants. If you were caught trying anything on, the security detail would throw you out. I saw this happen! The price points were great. Sweaters normally 135 euros on sale for 50 euros. Anyhow, I bought some presents and finally got out of there. I am seeing more and more of these sales going on, I think the economic crisis is affecting even retailers here, so they are getting a head start on getting rid of stock. By having an 'invitation only' sale, I believe they get around the french laws for sales. Normally, the sales happen twice a year and the government decides when. Nonetheless, judging by the line, I guess the crisis hasn't affected a certain sector of shoppers; the parisien fashionista.
Check out maje.fr for the styles or monshowroom.com.
So in Paris, there are alot of people who work for the LVMH group. Luckily, one of my husband's friend happens to work there. He knows nothing about fashion, but when I hinted that I would LOVE to go to a staff sale, he quickly invited me to the Marc Jacobs sale. I was over the moon!!
I arrived at the sale site early and I was able to chat to one of the sales woman taking a cigarette break. She said the line was long that morning and that people were in a total panic trying to get the best items before the person next to them. This sale was only for the folks who worked at LVMH, so it wasn't even open to the public and it was madness!
I watched with envy as women walked by with bags full of MJ shoes, bags and clothing. I spotted a very styled out Asian fashionista lugging a bag and she had on the required fur hat of the season. I asked myself if these people took the day off or they just took a very long lunch to shop??!
Anyhow, I got in and the atmosphere was thick with anticipation and stress. I found Marc by MJ bags for 100 euros. A very long table full of bags and all of them were the same price. I watched women carrying on one arm six bags and talking furiously on the phone to their girlfriends clearly filling orders or just describing what was available. On another table, I found Stam bags for 350 euros, but they were not moving much. The bag is several seasons old and it is far too heavy to carry around. Nonethless, most of the MJ line bags were 200 euros and up. I found racks and racks of clothes. I got a MJ red shiny raincoat for 100 euros, a frilly blouse for 40 euros and a wool skirt for 45 euros. The prices were really interesting but there was so much stuff, that you felt overwhelmed.
I wish I could have stayed longer, but my sponsor was eager to leave. I just hope I get invited to more sales, or maybe I should just get a part-time job at LVMH???
There is a certain style in Paris that caters to women from their 20's to early 40's. The stores that covet to this clientale are boutiques like Maje, Sandro, Les Petites, Vanessa Bruno, Isabel Marrant etc. The price points are usually between 50 euros for an accessory to 300 euros for a fabulous dress. They are several steps above Zara, but much cheaper than YSL, Gucci, Prada etc. So, you can imagine, the look they advocate is fairly popular. This is what really influences the style in Paris. Of course, this clientale starts mixing up pieces with higher end accessories, so you get a very chic street style. At the moment, what you find at these boutiques are lots of leggings, low boots, tunics, long sweaters and rabbit fur vests. You see this everywhere at the moment. So you can imagine how excited I was to find a 'stock' or outlet of Les Petites in Paris. It just recently opened and the prices are fabulous. Cashmere sweater tunics for 60 euros, trench coats for under 100 euros, lots and lots of dresses, all under 100 euros. The stock is changing constantly so it is a great stop if you are around the Pompidou center/Marais. It is located on 2 rue du caire in the 2nd.
So littered around Paris are outlets or 'stock' as the french call them. They are often a bit hidden and never have big signs on their storefront. I had heard of the Alaia boutique from a girlfriend bragging about her beautiful new shoes. Alas, I decided to check it out myself.
I ventured on Rue Verrerie to find this infamous outlet. This street is in the heart of the Marais, close to the metro 'hotel de ville' and to the most comfortable Starbucks in the city. So I knew the area well since I spend alot of time around this neighborhood. I walked up and down the street and I could not find it. I finally went past an archway and I spotted a plaque/intercom with ALAIA engraved on it. That was all. I walked through the arch to a courtyard and saw a door. All the windows were frosted. I entered and there I found a small room with loads of clothes and even more shoes.
I was not familiar with Alaia's wares, but I can vouch that if you wear his shoes and clothes, you could moonlight as a dominatrix. Everything fits tight to the body and the shoes make you look hotter than hot. I tried on a pair of boots made of leather so smooth it felt like butter. It laced in the front with a square toe and a heel that demands attention. The original price was 1000euros and it was on sale for half of that. Thus, most of the items started at 800 with 50% off. You feel like you are part of a cult when you are there or that you belong in a George Michael video from the 90's. Definitely worth the visit. 18 rue verrerie, 4eme.
So today I ventured to what one can consider the Vatican of the left bank - Le Bon Marche! It is a beautiful department store which is well organized, civilized and very exclusive. It differs greatly from its right bank counterparts, Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, since it isn't loud, chaotic or messy. Rarely to you find clumps of Japanese tourists blocking your way, nor huge packs of crazy old french ladies fighting to get in front of you. The store carries the latest designers and the sales people are relatively nice for french employees.
The most amazing department is the cosmetics. They have an entire room dedicated to hair care, an entire room dedicated to organic/natural products and the best part is that you can touch, smell and fondle the products without some salesperson harassing you!! There is no loud trendy music, so you don't feel like you are in Sephora. The primary color of the store is white so you never feel agoraphobic.
My girlfriend and I made our way to the Lanvin department hoping to try on the famous ballerina flats. The salesperson was super nice and we tried on several pairs. They really are the best ones on the market. They have a built in heel which is covered by the leather. The nubuck version was so comfortable, you felt you could already walk the streets without fear of a blister. They run about 375euros a pair, but during the sale, they usually go half price. I have already made a mental note.
It is 'le quatorze Juilliet', Bastille day and I decided in honor of the French, I would head down to the mecca of shopping that is the Galleries Lafayette and Printemps. Of course they were open today and since it is also the sale season, the area was pretty packed. I expected the normal tourists and folks from the suburbs to be around, but I was pleasantly surprised by the windows at Galleries Lafayette. It is called Paris Creation, and museums each have a vitrine to express themselves. So while we are in the throes of consumerism, we get glimpses of modern art in action. This twisted Batman and Mickey Mouse comes from Maison Rouge and is the project of Fabien Verschaere. It is an extension of "Vraoum! Tresors de la Bande dessinee et art contemporain" which is on display at the museum. There was a vitrine from Palais de Tokyo, Pompidou Centre, Museum of Decorative Arts, and a few others.
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