eye spy paris

Modern Art on Bastille Day

2009-07-14T22:02:00.005+02:00

It is 'le quatorze Juilliet', Bastille day and I decided in honor of the French, I would head down to the mecca of shopping that is the Galleries Lafayette and Printemps. Of course they were open today and since it is also the sale season, the area was pretty packed. I expected the normal tourists and folks from the suburbs to be around, but I was pleasantly surprised by the windows at Galleries Lafayette. It is called Paris Creation, and museums each have a vitrine to express themselves. So while we are in the throes of consumerism, we get glimpses of modern art in action. This twisted Batman and Mickey Mouse comes from Maison Rouge and is the project of Fabien Verschaere. It is an extension of "Vraoum! Tresors de la Bande dessinee et art contemporain" which is on display at the museum. There was a vitrine from Palais de Tokyo, Pompidou Centre, Museum of Decorative Arts, and a few others.
I truly love Paris for its ability to integrate art into our everyday lives. It is inspiring.

Fashion Week-models scattered around

2009-07-14T21:48:00.002+02:00

So it was another Fashion Week. I kind of forgot about it since we have been all consumed with the press sales, real sales and then the onslaught of tourists. It wasn't until I noticed, while taking the metro one day, that there seemed to be a higher population of very tall skinny girls, with lots of make-up on, looking lost. They all seem very quiet and a bit disoriented. I noticed this model on the metro one day and noted that her leggings were BAGGY on her. I also spoke to a friend of mine in fashion, and apparently the girls are getting skinnier and skinner and that they eat tissue when they are hungry. They certainly like them young, from an eastern European country and very skinny.

On a happier note, the press sales were good this time around. I chose to only go to the Vanessa Bruno sale and the Antik Batik one. The same chaos ensued where the women are undressing in the middle of the room trying loads of clothes one, while hiding from the security guard. There is definitely a method to the madness and one needs to wear legging and a tank top so one can try on things easily without having to show some skin. I also hit some of the private sales at the boutiques. Since the economic crisis started, more luxury good stores have started 'vente prive' in the store long before the sales begin. This year I fell upon such sale at Bottega Veneta and got a great bag for half-off. Of course they do not really advertise and they reluctantly tell you the price ( it is Paris after all..), but deals were in abundance this year. Even YSL had a special 'prototype' sale at their Faubourg St. Honore store which featured colors of models that never made it into production but were being sold for under 500 euros. I saw a great bow bag in navy blue, a small version of the Besace in a soft baby blue and weird Downtown colors. I witnessed women walking out with five or more bags that morning. By ten o'clock, the stock was virtually finished. Even in these tough times, you can't keep the fashionistas away from their accessories.

Jugetsudo - the art of japanese tea

2009-06-01T22:27:00.004+02:00

Paris is full of salon de thes. There is La Duree, Mariage Freres and a variety of other fancy cafes that serve tea. So the other day my husband and I were walking around the St. Germain area and we ran into this beautiful little pocket of Japanese culture.
The space is very luminous, stylish and cozy. It is a traditional Japanese tea room where they serve you different types of tea and a small little cake or rice cracker that compliments your choice. The water is kept hot in a kettle in front of you and each type of tea is served with a teapot and tea cup meant for that specific tea. They also serve matcha and froth it right in front of you which was really entertaining since I have failed miserably in frothing it myself.
It feels very civilized and they give you small bamboo forks to eat your cake delicately and everything is very organized in front of you. They also sell very high quality teas, teapots, and other accessories for the tea connisseur in all of us.
Jugetsudo, 95, rue de Seine, 5e
jugetsudo.fr

APC - outlet

2009-06-01T22:06:00.003+02:00

APC is always in the mags and I always think, I really need to have some pieces. The style is decidedly french preppy with a touch of garage sale glam. Some of the clothes remind me of something Chloe S. would probably wear or something you would find at a very cool vintage store. Alas, the clothes are well-made, great materials and seem really simple. It is a strange thing to find in Paris. But....I never seem to buy anything at the stores??? I find a piece I like and I always think, "I feel so unglamourous" !! The clothes are super utilitarian and nice, but the prices are hardly for the average socialist. The price points range from a blouse for over 100 euros and dresses for 300 and up. So when I found the stock, I was really excited.
The entire store is half off the price on the clothes. This made it super interesting. I grew up in suburbia in the States and when I see something like the GAP, my first thought is always, "it will go on sale soon" and it always does. It may just be a block in my thinking (or maybe because I am chinese?!) but I have a hard time paying alot of money for a pair of khakis.
Anyhow, the stock is great. Amazing selection, very hip boutique and the sales person was super nice. Plus is it close to Sacre Coeur which is beautiful and it is in the 18e which makes it a pretty funky experience.
APC surplus, 20 rue Andre del Sartre 18e

S&M Ostrich at 'merci'

2009-05-25T21:37:00.003+02:00

Just had to show you the funky bird I spotted at 'merci'. This is why I love Paris and the shopping here. You really never know what you will see!!

Hotel Particulier - Another concept store!!

2009-05-25T21:19:00.004+02:00

So I read in a very parisien magazine about another 'concept' store that was being talked about the 'people' in the know. I had such a wonderful experience with 'merci' that I figured it could be fun. Alas, was I ever wrong. The french love to go with an idea and really ride the hype. The OG of concept stores 'Colette' embodies how it can go too far. They have taken the 'concept' from concept store and basically have brought Brooklyn to Paris via very expensive t-shirts and a staff that is OCD with having to arrange things. I want to believe the original 'concept' of such a store is to be a one-stop shopping experience. A place where someone's good taste goes beyond one category; meaning I will find the right clothes, shoes, dishes, music and products to make my life super hip and amazing. 'merci' takes it out of Brooklyn and makes it very Parisien. We find very french labels, colorful textiles, jewelry that girls in paris acutally wear and cute kitchen utensils. They make it accessible, whereas Colette can make you feel kind of uncool because sometimes you just don't want to spend loads of money on a pair of Vans that are neon green....Anyhow, Hotel Particulier doesn't really fall anywhere on that radar.
I went in and all I found were some funky clothes, fancy laundry detergent that I could get it at Whole Foods and some lipgloss that was really colorful and sticky. I was super disappointed. Clearly the folks that launched this store have connections in the fashion press world and that is how they got the press because honestly the store is a huge disappointment.

'Merci' for the new concept store - merci

2009-04-24T22:22:00.007+02:00

The magical florist part of the new concept store 'merci' that welcomes you on the street.

The housewares section of this multi-tiered palace of creativity.

This plentiful little car welcomes you in the courtyard as you enter the store. It symbolizes what you may find inside, a bit of everything!

The clothing sections varies from specialized items from Marni, Stella McCartney, and YSL for the store, to Vanessa Bruno, Isabel Marant, Acne jeans and vintage finds. The light makes shopping a pure joy.

A certain percentage of the profits goes to a charity. There are linens, housewares, furniture and a used book cafe in one fabulous space. I have always loved the idea of concept stores, I just never have really fell in love with one. This store has two cafes, a used book store, clothes, gadgets, an Annick Goutal refill station for your favorite Parisien scent and amazing light. Price points range from 2 euros for a used book to 1000euros for a Haute Couture dress. I bought linen pillow cases for 29 euros and a fab straw hat for 35 euros. The owners of this wonderful concept store started Bonpoint, sold it and apparently got bored and created this space. ( I heard this from a good friend of theirs who happens to be a friend of mine!) Please visit it at 111 boulevard beaumarchais in the 3eme.

Patrick Roger - Chocolate for the ultimate Easter bunny

2009-04-10T22:45:00.006+02:00

Patrick Roger is one of the most amazing chocolate makers in France. He has a few boutiques scattered throughout the city, and each boutiques draws you in like Willy Wonka's chocolate forest. It is Easter time in Paris, and that means dramatic wonderful vitrines.
I fell upon his St. Germain boutique and was mesmerized by the colorful strange scene. Everything is done in chocolate. The hedgehogs, sardines and the cabbage patch scene are all done by him out of chocolate. There is nothing I like more than being impressed by the artistry in the city, and this vitrine simply supports my love for Paris.
Not only is he an artist with chocolate, but the chocolate is the smoothest and cleanest on the palate. You walk into his turquoise boutique and the pure smell of chocolate surrounds you. I have bought several boxes of his treats and I am always left with how wonderful it leaves your taste buds. I am heading there tomorrow to buy my hollow chocolate bunny filled with chocolate fishes and other little animals. You can find his wares at www.patrickroger.com. Happy Bunny Day everyone!!!

Depot Vente - OMG!!!!

2009-03-21T22:12:00.007+01:00

All girls have dreams, and some dream in Chanel. I hit a depot-vente in the 16th and 17th arrondissement and I felt like I found gold. These two areas of Paris are know for large beautiful buildings, very posh surroundings and loads of money. Many folks who are of this class move out of the centre of the city and settle here to have their families. As a result of such surroundings, the merchandise at these stores is amazing.

There are two stores, one in each arrondissement. The one in the 17th was bigger and had a huge selection of bags. I found brand new Ferragamo bags, Marc Jacobs, Chloe, and of course Chanel and Hermes. They had just received two classic Chanel bags and were selling them for 1300 euros each. Most of the merchandise was in impeccable condition. I also saw brand new LV shoes for around 200-300 euros. Clearly, fashionistas who are connected, get free/discounted stuff and never use it. They decide to change seasons and get rid of the old season. There are alot of clothes and tons of Chanel pieces. The jackets started at 800 and went up. But....if you are looking for a Chanel piece, they are the place to contact. They have a website, ship overseas and it is tax free!! I will definitely go there again. Since the recession is starting to hit Paris, people are getting rid of their wares fast! With the dollar getting a little stronger, I would advise to jump on this soon if you want a classic bag, jacket or any other piece of luxury!
www.depot-vente-paris.fr

Lacroix and Givenchy shows - pics follow

2009-03-08T22:04:00.002+01:00

I spent a fabulous Sunday in the Marais. I initially just went for brunch, but ended up walking around most of the day and then decided to go to two shows in the hood. My first show was the Christian Lacroix show on rue Turenne. It was relatively calm at the entrance and not bombarded with photographers. I met some other fellow folks hoping to get in and who were also taking pics. I met a sweet girl who was decked out and of whom tons of people tooks pics. She had told me how she had gotten into a few shows and how she was really a student at the Sorbonne studying journalism. In any case, we admired all the beautiful clothes passing by and the fashionistas entering the show. We nearly got into the show, but they just closed the entrance when they let us in. Alas, we decided to head to the Givenchy show which was just a few blocks away at the Carre du Temple.

The chaos in front of the entrance was intense. We had just entered into the world of Goth fashion. The amount of leather and severe looks was impressive. I saw a group of boys who were decked out in skinny leather pants or leggings paired with platform boots. They definitely looked the part. The paparazzi were in force and attacked the few celebrities who passed. I saw Beatrice Dalle and Kanye West with his new sidekick, the bald girl. We also saw tons of fashionistas trying to get in. Even with an invitation, it was hard to get in and the crowd was growing and growing. It was definitely the show of the day. The outfits were amazing and the energy inspiring. I also ran into garance dore, the sartorialist and bill cunningham outside the show. I love fashion in action!!! Tomorrow is the Stella McCartney show......

Bill Cunningham - the legend

2009-03-08T21:58:00.004+01:00

I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw Bill Cunningham at the Givenchy show. I went up to him and told him how much I loved his work with the New York Times. He was so nice and gracious and said that he loved the energy that the young bloggers gave to the show. He was so cute in his very practical jacket and super comfortable shoes. I have no idea how old he is, but he certainly smiled and talked to tons of people outside. He is an inspiration to all of us.

Fashion In Action - Givenchy

2009-03-08T21:30:00.026+01:00

The chaos in front of the entrance. You can feel the energy!!

Loved her coat and glasses. Headbands again.

Kanye West going into the show.

Amazing coat.

She had a huge Chanel cumberbund.

A bit of color in a sea of black. Requisite Goyard bag.

Japonista Fashionista.

Goth redhead.

Acid-washed jeans.

An air of fragility with an atmosphere of campy goth.

She looked super tough. Lots of leather.

He had amazing laces.

Her Givenchy shoes were a complicated work of art.

A group of boys all in leather leggings with platform boots. They were super fierce.

Need I say more? YSL.

Fashion in Action - Christian Lacroix show

2009-03-08T21:06:00.016+01:00

Fashion week here in Paris. I fell upon the Christian Lacroix show in the Marais. It wasn't super crowded but there were a good amount of fashionistas in the crowd. The girl with the glasses and her red-headed friend sneaked into the show. The vibe at the door was surprisingly mellow.

Headbands were everywhere in the crowd!

I befriended this Japanese photographer who is at school in New York at the Fashion Institute. She was shooting a project for her portfolio. She was using film instead of digital.

I loved the mix of textures. It was fairly cold out, but still the fashionistas managed to show a bunch of leg.

Anna Piaggi walking into the show. She is always dressed like Auntie Mame.

Loved her elegant neck and smile.

Fur was everywhere.

THE Auction of the Century - Yves Saint Laurent/Pierre Berge Collection

2009-02-26T21:57:00.019+01:00

Ok, I waited in line for 3 hours. The
exposition of the items up for sale
was for only three days and then all of it was going to different homes, via the Christie's auction. I waited until the weekend was over to head over to the Grand Palais. Those two days, the expo was open until midnight and on Monday it would only be open until 1pm and then they had to prepare for the sale. So, I figured it was a weekday, how bad could it be? I was totally wrong.

I arrived at the Grand Palais to find a line of umbrellas winding around the building. I arrived at 9:30, a half hour after it had opened. The security guard there said no one else was allowed to wait because already the wait was 5 hours!!! I was stunned. But something inside of me said to wait and just see what happens. Alas, I waited around and the line started to move....quickly! Myself and several other people, mainly women who clearly had nothing else pending, followed the security guard and his metal gate(to keep us at bay) for a good twenty minutes. I started chatting with a few people and some of them waited the day before for several hours, only to have been turned away. I do not know if I could have had that type of tenancity, but I kind of admired them for it. Only in Paris would you find people so in love with culture, art and style to wait in line for an art exposition!

Once inside, it was if you entered another world. The exposition was set up as rooms in YSL and Pierre Berge's apartments. The main apartment featured with the one on rue Babylone. On each walls, was a collage of sorts of the different textures found in the collection. It was mesmerizing. Upon entering you saw the muscular torso of a minataur, as if it was greeting you and letting you know you were in the garden of eden. There was haunting music playing and tons of people desperately craning their necks trying to get a peek and the luscious life of YSL and his partner.

The collection was created over a fifty-year period. One could see some of the phases they went through. There were alot of minaturs, male torsos (obvious), cobras and a wonderful desire for the exotic. My favorite piece was a metal owl made by german goldsmiths. It was estimated at 70,000 euros, but was sold for nearly 300,000 euros. I told my husband about it, but he just humored me and said that I probably didn't have enough pennies for the little owl. The Matisse painting that sold for 41 million dollars was really stunning. The most memorable pieces were the bronze heads from China. They were bigger than expected and seduced you with their beauty. If I were the government of China, I would want them returned as well. They were gorgeous.

All in all, the expo was an amazing experience. It was a chance to see a living collection before it was to be dissected and sent away to different homes. As one walked around, the collection represented a life that was clearly well lived.

The HERMES sale. It has taken me this long to recover from it.....

2009-02-23T22:53:00.009+01:00

So, every sale season, Hermes has a special sale that is held in the Palais de Congres. Thus, their stores never have the sale items and the immaculate organization there never gets disrupted. I have been to this sale twice. As we all know, Hermes makes practically the mos expensive 'IT' bag ever...the Birkin. The Kelly and the Birken are the Holy Grails of purses. But to obtain one, there is usually a long wait list (meaning years!) and it will cost you a very pretty penny. Each bag is handmade by one person and one bag normally takes several days to finish. They are amazing. So, one can imagine that this type of attention to detail translates to their other items. We can never forget the 'carre'- their beautiful scarves which are so artistic and colorful, we could collect them forever. As you can imagine, I have started my own collection!

The price points are very high, even on sale. Beach towels will set you back 200 euros, carres were 145 euros ( 100 euros cheaper than in the stores!) and the clothing starts at around 500 euros. Hermes is definitely the BCBG brand (french word for preppy or our version of WASP) so you can imagine what the crowd was like!

The Palais de Congres is basically a big convention center. You wait in line for at least an hour with women laquered with furs and jewels. This was easily the most aggressive crowd I have encountered in all the sales I attended this past season. Once inside, you are required to show if you have anything from Hermes, check your coat and are given a clear bag. I first hit the scarf table and women were pushing each other, grabbing scarves and hogging the mirrors. It was intense. They of course did not have any of the classic bags for sale, only the boring ones that they make for the people who want Hermes, regardless if they are totally unattractive. The sale was also littered with Japonista fashionistas, so those bags definitely sold! There was even a duty-free counter at this sale.
I bought a scarf, but the atmosphere was so thick with passive and sometimes very aggressive energy that I would recommend going when you are really ready to fight a bit.

rue Faubourg St Honore - winter sales!! hermes store, moncler, d&g...

2009-01-10T23:24:00.006+01:00

The sales...Les Soldes.....

2009-01-10T23:06:00.003+01:00

Sorry I have been MIA. The holidays came and went and then I had to prepare for the winter sales. It is a strange and tense time of year. The anticipation is thick and everyone feels they have been waiting for months to get what they didn't get for xmas. Women create strategies from what to wear to the sales ( easy to try stuff on) to what area to shop in while maximizing the good brands. My husband doesn't really understand the need and desire to acquire more goods during the sale. He thinks my version of economics is seriously flawed. I don't understand why he doesn't see that 50% off Lanvin shoes is really saving money!!! He thinks I am alone in this mindset, but I have assured him that he is in the minority. Just look around Printemps or rue faubourg st honore and he will see people who share my philosophy.

So, earlier this week, I ventured out into the shopping tundra to see what was my destiny.....

First stop was Printemps. Luckily it was a weekday and the second day of the sales. There were no big queues in front of Prada, Gucci or Dior. Normally you see loads of Japanese fashionistas drooling in line ready to buy as many bags as possible. Granted, it was fairly early in the day, so I may have been ahead of the crowds. The store was lively and they had an announcer saying what brands were on which floor and what percent was being reduced. Most of the store was 50% off. The entire Vanessa Bruno collection was 50% off. I touched, lingered, and almost tried something on, but I chose to keep trucking. The thing with the sales is that as time passes, they often mark things down more. So if it isn't a 'to die for' item, them it pays to wait a few weeks to see how low it will go. I stopped on the 2nd floor which is the Luxe floor. I breezed in Dior, Celine, Gucci, Prada and finally really took a look at YSL. As some of my friends know, I have a big thing for bags. We all have our achilles heel and mine happens to be YSL bags in general. They had loads of bags at half off!! But as luck would have it, my Easy bag in black/grey was of course not on sale. Prices were good if one was looking for this seasons colors or patent leather bags. One could get a 1000 euros bag for 500. See, good economics! The glass is half full.

Today I headed to the luxury street of rue Faubourg St Honore. The minute you walk on the street, you feel transported to another planet. Chanel on one side, Prada on the other. Fashioistas walking around with multiple shopping bags from the labels we all covet. I had bought Lanvin flats at the boutique and they give you a fabulous shopping bag. I noticed a very slick asian fashionista eyeing my bag with jealousy and curiosity. That is the accessory during the sales; the shopping bag from these glorious boutiques. Everyone checks out each other. I love Paris....

There were lines outside these boutiques. From the glorious Eric Bompard cashmire store to the slick Moncler store. Also on rue Faubourg St Honore, we see the lights at the Hermes store. Their sale is at the end of the month at the Palais de Congres. You know I'll be there.

Christmas windows in Paris

2008-12-28T12:25:00.010+01:00

One of my favorite things about Paris are the Christmas windows at Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. There is obviously a bit of competition between the two big department stores and during the holiday season, that area is always packed with people looking at the stunning offerings. Fortunately the stores are right next to each other.
This year the theme at Galeries Lafayette was a very pink Alice in Wonderland filled with dancing bears, a crazy tea party and basically pink everywhere. At Printemps this year the theme was Coco Chanel. Chanel everywhere.
Paris never ceases to amaze me. Even the children are well dressed and they somehow match the windows!!

Rose Bakery

2008-12-14T22:20:00.005+01:00

So, although Paris has great food, you can't always find great organic food. Rose Bakery fits the bill. The french/english couple are originally from London and they have imported an Anglophone-type deli to Paris. There you find tarts, quiches, carrot cake, fruit crumbles and cinnamon rolls to name a few. They also have for take-away grilled veggies, salads and little pizzas. Their restaurant serves brunch on the weekends and lunch during the week. I had their hamburger which was organic, mixed with wonderful herbs and flanked with grilled pumpkin and sweet potatoes. My friend had a quiche which was divine. They sell organic teas, cookies and other yummy things for you to bring home. Everyone there speaks english. This is a cozy place to hang when you just want something organic and familiar.

This bakery is also in the 3rd/11th hood I was talking about in the Chloe outlet post. And, Rose's brother is married to Rei Kawabuko thus, making this place super cool.
rue debellyme 75003
they have a second bakery at rue des martyrs 75009

Chloe outlet

2008-12-14T22:01:00.005+01:00

This was clearly the last sale of 'press sale' season. The city is littered with 'stocks' or outlets, it just takes time to figure out which ones are worth visiting. These pseudo exclusive sales are a good way to get new clients. Anyhow, there was a password and then you could get it.

Everyone loves Chloe. Ever since Phoebe Philo re-invented the label a few years ago, every wannabe 'bobo' fashionista yearns for Chloe. Unfortunately, the price points are usually really high. So, alas, I went to the outlet to see what deals were to be had!!!

The area is one of those 'transitonal' neighborhoods of Paris. It is near Republic which also flanks Belleville which is known to be a bit seedy and not so glamourous. This is also a neighborhood that is becoming hipper as we speak. The 3rd and the 11th arrondissement are the ultimate urban village. Cool boutiques such as Vanessa Bruno, Antik Batik, Shine and APC occupy real estate here. Things still feel Parisien without feeling too gentrified. So, it seemed appropriate that the Chloe outlet was on the outskirts of this 'hood.

Upon entering, you see loads of bags. They were between 500-800 euros with 20% off. I saw some Paddingtons, Bay bags, but no Paraty bags. The clothes were a big mix. They had loads of sweaters, pants and dresses. The price point varied from 100 - over 500 euros for fur coats. Everything had an additional 20% that day. So, for Chloe, the prices were ok, but compared to the other press sales I had been too, it wasn't the best deal. Next door were the shoes. I saw ballerina flats for 112 euros ( super cute!!) heels for 200 and some boots. It was there that made the trip all worth it. I found some cute purple suede flats that were so soft that I couldn't leave without them. Chloe outlet 5-7 rue J P Timbaud 75011, closest metro is Oberkampf.

the press sales continue.......

2008-12-09T21:17:00.007+01:00

So the sales continued. I headed to the Place Vosges in the Marais for the 'Les Petites' sale. It was a miserable day and the line was formed under the arcades. Place Vosges is where you can find Victor Hugo's home, which is a museum, and loads of little cafes and galleries. It is gorgeous. So luckily we were protected from the rain, since the line was equally as long as the one for Maje and it was moving really slow.

Normally at these sales, they do not allow you to try on the clothes. Initially I found it slightly irritating, but after this sale, I kind of agree with that policy. I saw girls piling up clothes in a corner and just taking off their clothes to try on dresses, pants etc. The security detail, which is always present, must have been having a hey-day watching all the women in different stages of undress. I saw an old woman, clearly in her 70's shuffling about with a dress on and her pants at her ankles. It freaked me out!!! The air was thick with dust from the clothes being thrown around, the chaos of the girls vying for a spot to try their potential clothes and the bitchiness of girls hoping to find something before you do. Les Petites' price points aren't the highest and their quality is passable. They are extremely trendy, thus making them very popular. You could tell the difference between this clientele versus the other sales I have been to. Dresses were 50 euros, sweaters 50 euros and coats 70 euros. I left fairly quickly. I was not inspired to really look for anything. The desperation, and the image of the old lady, traumatized me for the day!

The next day, I awoken with the feeling of hope. I was off to the Vanessa Bruno sale in the Bastille. I love her clothes and her quality is amazing. I arrived fairly early and the line was just a few minutes wait. The women in the line were also very well dressed , in that Vanessa Bruno way, and super nice. I have a card to this store, but apparently there are different levels depending on how much you spend. So, technically I could not go to the sale until after noon, but I was assured by the girl standing next to me and I could piggy back on her invite. How nice is that?

The place was organized by color and size. It was so structured, just like her clothes. Also, you were able to try on the clothes, but only where you found them. Thus, no one could hide away with two bags of clothes to try on. The atmosphere was full of anticipation, but since the clothes were a much higher quality and price, it remained a bit more civilized. There were her famous tote bags with sequins starting at 50 euros, shoes for 120 euros and clothes starting at 60 euros. They also had her Athe line which is fun and bit lower priced. I wanted to buy so many pieces, but I made do with a sweater and a cute dress. The desire for my new YSL bag is keeping me in check.

Press sales- Sandro, et vous and tara jarmon

2008-12-01T09:15:00.006+01:00

I have fallen upon the strange phenomenon that are the press sales in Paris. I am sure there are several levels, and clearly I am still a debutante, but they are so enticing. In Paris, they are legally 'allowed' two big sales per year. The government decides when and we all wait with bated breath for that day. But, I am guessing that a way to get around the law is to have these 'invitation only' sales. In any case, I hit as many as I could find last week.

The first sale I hit was Tara Jarmon in the Marais. Same location as the Maje sale last week and same security detail. I noticed that this security detail are the same guys they use for the fashion shows. They all wear the same coat and the same earpiece. The scan the store to make sure no one is stealing or trying on the goods. It is a very strange presence. Anyhow, let's talk about the goods!!

Tara Jarmon is a strange designer. I guess if you like embellished girly clothes, she is the one for you. Loads of coats with claudine collars, cute buttons etc. Not really my style, but I did find a nice cardigan for my mother-in-law with pearl buttons. Yes, that type of cute! Normally the prices in the store start at 100 euros and up and the prices were about 60-70% off retail. There were loads of girls there lining up and buying loads of coats and dresses. I felt like a lightweight only getting one thing, but I knew I had many more sales ahead of me!

The next stop was at Adele Sand in the Bastille. It is one of those stores that regularly has 'stock' and if you are a member, you can get in early. So, in the name of research, I joined and I got my little card so I could check it out without a line. The Sandro sale there started early in the morning, so I figured it would be good to see the goods before the madness.
I normally like Sandro, but the sale was fairly mediocre. The style is a bit more hippie-ish and a bit less edgy than maje or zadig. I saw loads of things from last year which was a bit disappointing. The prices were not as interesting as the other sales. Sweaters ran about 70 euros for wool and acrylic mixes. I was surprised. I had been seeing cashmere for 50 euros everywhere else. The coats were still over 100 euros. Nonetheless, Sandro has a very good following and the girls were stuffing their transparent bags full of goods. I bought nothing. The security detail gave me a hard time for taking a picture of the outside of the store. I think they are trying to give the feeling of exclusivity, yet, it was just a bunch of girls trying to get a good deal. I was a bit put off needless to say!!
The next sale I hit was the brand 'et vous'. I had never bought their stuff, but had checked them out regularly in the stores. They are known for having great sweaters and well made clothes. The store was on 15-17 rue Turbigo just near the Pompidou center. The sale was great. Cashmere sweater dresses for 60 euros or if you bought two, 100 euros. Other thinner sweaters for 40 euros. Great coats and really cute tops. There was no security detail and you could try the stuff on. Overall, a much happier experience. I ended up getting two nice cashmere items. I would definitely recommend visiting that store if you are in the neighborhood.
I have two more sales this next week and then I have to SAVE for the big sales in Jan. Let's hope I don't get tempted too much!!!

Christmas - Galeries Lafayette

2008-11-23T12:15:00.003+01:00

maje - presse sale

2008-11-23T11:50:00.006+01:00

So, I get a weekly email from 'my little paris' which is the equivalent of 'daily candy'. Last week they said they had invitations to the Maje press sale. You initially feel kind of special, but then you realize that you are not the only one getting this email, but are hoping people do not have the time to go.
Maje is a very hip label which is very bobo parisien. Bobo stands for bohemian bourgeois and the style is quite specific. Slightly hippie, but with elements that are clearly expensive and well thought out. I do like the line and I have a few pieces. The price points start at 50 euros for a hat etc. up to 300 euros for a coat. As a result of the affordability, it is quite popular with the working fashionista in Paris.
So, I went to the sale and I could not believe what I saw. I showed up in the Marais and there was a line of at least 200 girls. There were security guards at the front gate with ear mics. and they were all dressed in black. The location was a loft that I assume is rented out for many such sales. The line started on one side of the sidewalk and then switched to the other side due to a government building. We could not block the entrance. This was a Wednesday, a working day and girls were lined up!!! After a long wait, I finally got in.
It was chaos inside. We were not allowed to try anything on. The selection was from this season, so it was pretty interesting. There were tables of sweaters and sales girls behind the table taking people's orders. The tables were being pushed by the shoppers and every now and then the sales girls would push the tables back violently to regain some space. I also assumed it was a way to release some stress! There were racks and racks of dresses, coats and pants. If you were caught trying anything on, the security detail would throw you out. I saw this happen! The price points were great. Sweaters normally 135 euros on sale for 50 euros. Anyhow, I bought some presents and finally got out of there. I am seeing more and more of these sales going on, I think the economic crisis is affecting even retailers here, so they are getting a head start on getting rid of stock. By having an 'invitation only' sale, I believe they get around the french laws for sales. Normally, the sales happen twice a year and the government decides when. Nonetheless, judging by the line, I guess the crisis hasn't affected a certain sector of shoppers; the parisien fashionista.
Check out maje.fr for the styles or monshowroom.com.

marc jacobs staff sale!! i got in!

2008-11-14T21:26:00.006+01:00

So in Paris, there are alot of people who work for the LVMH group. Luckily, one of my husband's friend happens to work there. He knows nothing about fashion, but when I hinted that I would LOVE to go to a staff sale, he quickly invited me to the Marc Jacobs sale. I was over the moon!!

I arrived at the sale site early and I was able to chat to one of the sales woman taking a cigarette break. She said the line was long that morning and that people were in a total panic trying to get the best items before the person next to them. This sale was only for the folks who worked at LVMH, so it wasn't even open to the public and it was madness!

I watched with envy as women walked by with bags full of MJ shoes, bags and clothing. I spotted a very styled out Asian fashionista lugging a bag and she had on the required fur hat of the season. I asked myself if these people took the day off or they just took a very long lunch to shop??!
Anyhow, I got in and the atmosphere was thick with anticipation and stress. I found Marc by MJ bags for 100 euros. A very long table full of bags and all of them were the same price. I watched women carrying on one arm six bags and talking furiously on the phone to their girlfriends clearly filling orders or just describing what was available. On another table, I found Stam bags for 350 euros, but they were not moving much. The bag is several seasons old and it is far too heavy to carry around. Nonethless, most of the MJ line bags were 200 euros and up. I found racks and racks of clothes. I got a MJ red shiny raincoat for 100 euros, a frilly blouse for 40 euros and a wool skirt for 45 euros. The prices were really interesting but there was so much stuff, that you felt overwhelmed.

I wish I could have stayed longer, but my sponsor was eager to leave. I just hope I get invited to more sales, or maybe I should just get a part-time job at LVMH???

les petites - another 'stock'

2008-11-14T21:15:00.004+01:00

There is a certain style in Paris that caters to women from their 20's to early 40's. The stores that covet to this clientale are boutiques like Maje, Sandro, Les Petites, Vanessa Bruno, Isabel Marrant etc. The price points are usually between 50 euros for an accessory to 300 euros for a fabulous dress. They are several steps above Zara, but much cheaper than YSL, Gucci, Prada etc. So, you can imagine, the look they advocate is fairly popular. This is what really influences the style in Paris. Of course, this clientale starts mixing up pieces with higher end accessories, so you get a very chic street style. At the moment, what you find at these boutiques are lots of leggings, low boots, tunics, long sweaters and rabbit fur vests. You see this everywhere at the moment. So you can imagine how excited I was to find a 'stock' or outlet of Les Petites in Paris. It just recently opened and the prices are fabulous. Cashmere sweater tunics for 60 euros, trench coats for under 100 euros, lots and lots of dresses, all under 100 euros. The stock is changing constantly so it is a great stop if you are around the Pompidou center/Marais. It is located on 2 rue du caire in the 2nd.

Azzedine Alaia- Outlet

2008-11-09T21:35:00.006+01:00

So littered around Paris are outlets or 'stock' as the french call them. They are often a bit hidden and never have big signs on their storefront. I had heard of the Alaia boutique from a girlfriend bragging about her beautiful new shoes. Alas, I decided to check it out myself.

I ventured on Rue Verrerie to find this infamous outlet. This street is in the heart of the Marais, close to the metro 'hotel de ville' and to the most comfortable Starbucks in the city. So I knew the area well since I spend alot of time around this neighborhood. I walked up and down the street and I could not find it. I finally went past an archway and I spotted a plaque/intercom with ALAIA engraved on it. That was all. I walked through the arch to a courtyard and saw a door. All the windows were frosted. I entered and there I found a small room with loads of clothes and even more shoes.
I was not familiar with Alaia's wares, but I can vouch that if you wear his shoes and clothes, you could moonlight as a dominatrix. Everything fits tight to the body and the shoes make you look hotter than hot. I tried on a pair of boots made of leather so smooth it felt like butter. It laced in the front with a square toe and a heel that demands attention. The original price was 1000euros and it was on sale for half of that. Thus, most of the items started at 800 with 50% off. You feel like you are part of a cult when you are there or that you belong in a George Michael video from the 90's. Definitely worth the visit. 18 rue verrerie, 4eme.

Richard Serra all over Paris

2008-10-29T21:59:00.004+01:00

So I was walking through the Jardins de Tuileries the other day and I came upon a huge metal sculpture. It felt like a modern day Alice in Wonderland maze. Alas, it was a Richard Serra sculpture. The piece was put up 6 months ago and will be removed next month. Last May, Richard Serra created a new installation for the Grand Palais. I find it inspiring that the city of Paris supports these types of works.

fiac - Cour Caree du Louvre

2008-10-26T09:20:00.008+01:00

I went to the FIAC exhibit at the Louvre yesterday. Packed full of people and inside, it was crowded with buyers, voyeurs and tourists looking at contemporary art. There were galleries from all over the world exhibiting their artists. The Prix Marcel Duchamp is located there and the four artists up for the prize were featured. The winner will have an exhibit in the Pompidou Center next year. It is limited to only french artists. The other main stage of the FIAC is at the Grand Palais. What I saw today was really interesting and you felt you were really on the pulse of art that is happening now.

hello kitty - fiac

2008-10-24T18:08:00.006+02:00

So by far the coolest thing about being is Paris is all the art around. This week the FIAC - Foire Internationale d'Art Contemporain is going on for three days. Galleries open up and there are loads of exhibits at the Grand Palais and other museums throughout the city. In honor of this happening, the artist Tom Sachs has created three big sculptures and placed them at the Trocadero over looking the Eiffel Tower. There is a 'Crying Hello Kitty', a
'Crying Miffy' and a My Melody. The Hello Kitty and Miffy are fountains with water coming out of their eyes. For more information on the art exhibits you can check it out at fiac.com.

rock n roll - zadig et voltaire

2008-10-24T17:51:00.005+02:00

The french really seem to embrace rock n' roll in everything. They have their imitation Elvis in Johnny Hallyday and the women love to dress like rock star groupies. This usually entails lots of black, skinny jeans, a casual top and a great slouchy bag. The store that dominates this look is Zadig et Voltaire. They are found all over Paris and they love cashmere sweaters with words like "MICK", "KURT" and "PEACE" stitched on the back. Their clothes are tight fitting, lofty and overpriced. They definitely have some cute items, but it comes with a price tag which seems ridiculous for the quality. Nonetheless, it is a staple in a Parisian's wardrobe. I admit to having a few pieces, but I resisted the sweaters with random English words stitched in. There is an outlet in the Marais next to Mariage Freres on rue Bourg-Tibourg. It is kind of hidden and sometimes you can find good deals. I got a cute long-sleeve shirt there the other day with some gold stitching for 48 euros. If you have the energy, you should check it out.

TBM-Le Bon Marche

2008-10-09T20:48:00.002+02:00

So today I ventured to what one can consider the Vatican of the left bank - Le Bon Marche! It is a beautiful department store which is well organized, civilized and very exclusive. It differs greatly from its right bank counterparts, Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, since it isn't loud, chaotic or messy. Rarely to you find clumps of Japanese tourists blocking your way, nor huge packs of crazy old french ladies fighting to get in front of you. The store carries the latest designers and the sales people are relatively nice for french employees.
The most amazing department is the cosmetics. They have an entire room dedicated to hair care, an entire room dedicated to organic/natural products and the best part is that you can touch, smell and fondle the products without some salesperson harassing you!! There is no loud trendy music, so you don't feel like you are in Sephora. The primary color of the store is white so you never feel agoraphobic.
My girlfriend and I made our way to the Lanvin department hoping to try on the famous ballerina flats. The salesperson was super nice and we tried on several pairs. They really are the best ones on the market. They have a built in heel which is covered by the leather. The nubuck version was so comfortable, you felt you could already walk the streets without fear of a blister. They run about 375euros a pair, but during the sale, they usually go half price. I have already made a mental note.

David Lynch at Cafe Flore

2008-10-07T22:11:00.002+02:00

I was just having a snack with my girlfriend Mollie today at Cafe Flore, and who do I spot sitting right in front of us....David Lynch!!! Random sighting. He was there for awhile and we could hear his mid-western twang.

Consignment Stores- Left Bank

2008-10-07T21:53:00.005+02:00

So today I ventured to the other stores listed in the IHT article. By chance, I was near St. Germain, so I headed over to Le Depot-Vente de Buci located on 4 rue de Bourbon Le Chateau. There are two stores. One store has mid-range items and the other stores carries more luxury good. The second store is where I focused my critical energy.
First of all, it seems all the women who work at these places are pretty unfriendly and can be downright rude. So be prepared when you go into these stores. On that note, let's see what I found!
They had a pretty good collection of YSL, Chanel and some LV. I found some YSL suits for around 280 euros. I found a YSL raincoat for 180 euros, but it looked pretty old. I also found a LV type of raincoat, short, clearly a model during the Murakami rainbow color years, for 400 euros. It is the type of store that if you have patience, you may be able to find a gem, but the majority of the stuff wasn't really of the season and some of it felt almost vintage-y. The shocker was a Hermes Kelly bag, size 30 I believe in a hard calf leather without the shoulder strap or dust bag for 3000 euros. It was in passable shape, but I have found on the internet similar bags with all the accessories for about the same price.
The stores is close to many tourist trappings and shopping. So, if you are having a drink at Cafe Flore or Les Deux Magots, swing by and maybe you'll find something that moves you.

After that stop, I headed to the other side of the 7th, past Les Invalids to check out Amelie par Luxury located at 17 rue Amelie. This store is not easy to get to and transportation to that area is challenging. So, I decided to go by foot and by the time I got there, I was pretty tired.
The store was a great surprise. The saleswoman was really nice. The first one I have encountered at these stores. Her items were well organized, clean and of the season. This meaning, she had everything for fall and winter out. Her shoes were off the ground and put on a very clean shelf where you could pick and choose without bending down. There was a good bit of Chanel around. I found a gorgeous Chanel mid-length raincoat for 800 euros, a Marni wool long coat for 350 euros and another Marni coat for 650 euros. The prices are comparable with WK Accessories, but it is a friendlier environment. She had nice purses as well, but the selection paled in comparison to WK. Also, they have a website which is based in Switzerland and they have loads of stuff.
This store is worth the visit if you are in the area.

Palais Royal

2008-10-06T21:32:00.004+02:00

I have to admit, I love the Palais Royal. Not only is it connected to my favorite author's old apartment (Colette) but it is a tiny little piece of paradise in the middle of Paris. It has amazing stores in the arcade, a beautiful garden and always interesting art installations. They have a new one called 'Guardianes' by Xavier Mascaro. In the middle of children playing in the sand and the fountain, you now find a series of seated iron guards protecting a skeleton of a boat. They are placed in a line with the first guards at either end facing away from the boat and the others facing toward the boat. It is amazing. Additionally, the Palais Royal has added a little something new to their normal pylon installation. They have surrounded it with a wall and you can only look into the pylons via a colored window. The windows are at all heights so kids can enjoy it as well. For a garden attached to the Comedie Francaise, it definitely embraces modern art and makes it accessible to everyone.

Consignment Stores - Right Bank

2008-10-06T21:00:00.006+02:00

So two of my favorite shopaholics both sent me an article on depot-vente(i.e. consignment stores) spots in Paris on the same day!! I figured I could not disrespect them, so I decided to take it upon myself to explore the conspicuous consumption possibilities. I took the metro to Tuileries and ventured out.
Once one is out of the metro stop, you are basically in fashion central. Not the typical Champs-Elysees type, but the very fashionable area dominated by Colette. The store is right up the street from the metro. So, I walked up the rue Marche St Honore and began looking for WK Accessories.
It was literally spitting distance from Colette. There were some remnants of fashion week milling about since in the Tuileries Gardens, there was an industry market called Atmospheres which had tents all over and had exhibits from up and coming designers. Anyhow, back to the store... So, in the window they had two Hermes bags, Louboutin shoes, Givenchy bag, YSL coat, and loads of other luxury good items. You walk in and there is a round rack of purses ranging from Fendi to Louis Vuitton. I spotted a brand new YSL patent leather muse bag, large size, for 600 euros. The woman said they had loads of brand new bags. I also noted loads of Marni dresses, starting at 400 euros, good amount of Chloe, much of it with tags still on and a good amount of Chanel. I found a gorgeous Roberto Cavalli sweater, brand new, for 500 euros. There was alot of clothing with the tags still on.
There was a good amount of shoes as well, though I didn't really explore them carefully. Most of them looked worn and I am not a fan of worn shoes.

I watched a woman come in with a rolling LV bag and two big LV vernis bags with stuff to sell. She was laquered in designer-wear and you could tell she cleared her wardrobe every season. I got the impression this store got the cream of the crop on the right bank.

I explored another store that was mentioned in the IHT article called La Marelle located in the Galerie Vivienne. There was no comparison. Though the Galerie is beautiful and worth a visit, the store has very mid-range items. You found some Isabel Marant, Max Mara and Comptoir des Cotonniers. I felt that these type of brands you could buy for new on sale rather than go to a consignment stores. The beauty of a consignment stores is to find amazing pieces that; 1) you have never seen or were able to get on the waitlist, 2) they just cost way too much to buy new and in season.

So, if you really want to check out a 'worth the detour' store and you are ready to drop some euros, check out WK Accessories at 5 rue marche st honore. I will definitely be hitting it again judging by all the women coming in with bags of things to unload!!

Colette remodeled

2008-10-03T21:42:00.003+02:00

I decided to make my way to Colette today to check out the new decor. It had been closed for most of the summer in order to remodel the famous digs. They had opened a temporary store in NYC this summer during the close. Anyhow, little did I know that everyone else had the same idea.

The place was packed. They had a wall of custom-made sneakers and a walled off row of t-shirts and hoodies. I felt like I was in Brooklyn on acid. The music was blaring and hipsters were everywhere. They still have the great book department and gadget displays. Unfortunately, they moved all the beauty products upstairs.

Upstairs you are still overwhelmed by mannequins with gorgeous shoes and gothic/hipster outfits. It is amazing. I saw lots of Valentino and Lanvin shoes. Black and fur was everywhere. There was still a great deal of YSL bags, but all in colors of grey or black. It is always hard to ask to try things on there, because you feel like you are in a living gallery.

The beauty products were tucked in a cooridor in between going to the art expo on the little loft. One felt like if you moved too quickly, you would ruin their displays. I saw a salesperson using a ruler to make sure all the lipsticks were in the right place.

I fell in love with a Marie-Helene de Taillac little bracelet. They were delicate and in the nice indian gold she is famous for....maybe I'll get it the next time I do a tour there.

Colette was definitely the rest stop between shows for the fashion crowd. Loads of Goyard bags, black clothing and attitude was abundant today.

Private Sale? In the 16th?

2008-10-03T19:11:00.002+02:00

After I left the chaos of the show, I decided I could use some retail therapy. I heard about this sale via mylittleparis.com. It is basically the french version of Daily Candy. Anyhow, it was on the other side of Paris in the 16th which is notorious for being extremely bourgeois and generally kind of boring. Alas, I took the metro and got off at La Muette. The store is called Espace NGR and is located on rue de boulainvilliers. It is not super easy to find, but once you are in, it is so worth it.

You have to check your coat and any other little bags you have with you. They give you a clear plastic bag and you are off! The sale this week was Prada, D&G, Marni, Marc Jacobs, Sergio Rossi accessories and shoes. It was a war zone. Boxes everywhere, clothes off hangers and stressed women all around. The choices were amazing. I nearly died for a Prada Mohair coat which made me look like cousin IT, but it was so warm and cozy. Everything was at least 60% off. Since I am presently on a shopping ban, I resisted. It nearly killed me. I tried on a pair of Sergio Rossi bootie heels which made my legs look so sexy, but the sales woman said the gap between my heel and the shoe was far too large. Leave it to french women to tell you the truth. Luckily, they don't work on commission. I left feeling totally dissatisfied but the sales occur every week. Next week is Vanessa Bruno and American Vintage. I can assure you I'll be ready.

You can check out their website at www.espace-ngr.fr.

japanese fashionista

2008-10-03T18:56:00.000+02:00

fashionista!!!!

2008-10-03T18:52:00.000+02:00

black, black, black

2008-10-03T18:51:00.000+02:00

Carine Rotfeild leaving the show.

2008-10-03T18:48:00.001+02:00

Natalie Vodianova and Lord Justin Portman arriving late.

2008-10-03T18:46:00.000+02:00

chaos in front of the show and good shoes.

2008-10-03T18:41:00.002+02:00

Fashion Week!!!

2008-10-03T17:40:00.002+02:00

So, here I am in Paris and it is fashion week. I decided to look up what shows were going on yesterday, and low and behold, Stella McCartney had a show not so far from where I live. Alas, I figured I'd swing by to see what it really involves. Wow! I slowly walked around the Carreau du Temple in the 3rd arrondissement and then I saw the chaos. Fashionistas everywhere and wannabe fashionistas. There were also tons of papparazzi. I never really considered myself the stalker type, but I have to say I was really intrigued. I took out my camera to take pics of the amazing shoes, outfits and maybe the token 'celebrity'.

The women walking into the show were all dressed in black and wearing HIGH heels. Sandals were de rigour. Despite the cold, the gladiator type black sandals were the uniform. Bare legs and all. The fashionistas were all incredibly thin. I took a photo of the Carine Roitfeld while she was passing by. Her calves are tiny! I also spotted Natalie Vodianova and her husband Lord Justin Portman as they were trying to get into the show. Clearly the doorman did not recognize them and they struggled to be let in.

Alas, the show only lasted 20 minutes and then people were pouring out of the show. The papparazzi were shooting away. I spotted 'the sartorialist' Scott Schuman taking pics afterwards. He is very friendly and super energetic.

I realized that the Japanese do not just dominate the Louis Vuitton store here, but they dominate the shows as well. They remain a super styled out population.